Gomulja Alleyway, Where the Old and Young Coexist

On the opposite side of Nambu Market is an old and narrow yet still sunny alleyway. This is ‘Gomulja Golmok (alleyway)’. Right after the Korean War, the American relief supplies, jeans, and the like were being bought and sold here. The name ‘Gomulja’ comes from ‘guhomulja (relief supply)’.

Haewadal Bunsik

The smell of boiling broth with dried anchovy is filling the alleyway. Next to the entrance are dried anchovy boxes. Inside the venue are two long tables. Often the customers sit together with strangers. The owner who has been running the venue for three decades observes the customers with careful eyes. She asks “do you need gase (dialect for ‘gawi’ or scissor)”? And places the scissor on the table.

All the menus, including kalguksu (chopped noodle soup) and sujebi (dough flake soup), are only 4,000 won. Dulkae sujebi (dough flake and ground perilla seeds soup), which is only offered during winter, is 5,000 won. The side dishes are homemade fermented kimchi and pickled radish. Sometimes the owner shares her own side dishes with the customers.

Seonhee Chimgu

In the past, people went to the cotton factory to even out the cotton. Then the cotton is brought to bedclothes shop to make bedding. I was surprised to find that such place still exists these days.

Ruby Hanbok

Ruby Hanbok is run by a hanbok master Oh Jung-ja. She has been working at Gomulja Golmok for 27 years. She held exhibition in 2018. She also used to run hanbok sewing class to revive the old alleyway.

Osung Jaegwa

I was drawn by the sweet smell of roasting sesame seeds and peanuts. Osung Jaegwa sells traditional Korean snacks, such as oil and honey pastry, fried rice or sesame cakes, and the like. Watching the old machines, it seems like I’ve just travelled back in time when my grandmother made the New Year’s Day snacks.

Banul Sonyo Gongjakso (sewing studio)

 
Banul Sonyo Gongjakso is an eight-years old sewing studio. The studio started in the Hanok Village but moved to Gomulja Golmok four years ago. The owner and the cat welcomed me as I entered. I was offered sweet potato and milk tea. Along with selling various textile products popular nationwide, the studio offers sewing and embroidery class too.

DOUBLE DOOR

At the end of Gomulja Golmok is café DOUBLE DOOR. As I pass through the large door, I was greeted by the scent of scones, biscuits, and coffee. The owner enjoys the peaceful coexistence and relaxed air of the young artists and the locals.

DOUBLE DOOR offers a generous potion of dessert and coffee based on two coffee beans upon choice. Beverages based on seasonal fruits are the signature menu here. The café is chic but relaxed without attitude, so that the locals on light clothes can visit whenever they feel like a delicious cup of coffee.

Last WEEK

On the second floor of an old building which is next to Jeonju Gallery is a café without signboard. The name of the café is Last WEEK. Although only half-yeard old, the café is already famous in the Instagram.

The interior of the café is filled with vintage chairs, lightings, and posters with fancy typographies. Each chair has name tags with the origin, year produced, and price. The signature menus are fruit ades with big fruit pieces, coffee based on the bean from Melbourne, big brownie, cannele, and croissant waffle.

Banul Sonyo Gongjakso (sewing studio)
Address: Pungnammun 4gil 15-12, Wansangu, Jeonju
Opening hours: 14:00~19:00 (Mon), 10:00~19:00 (Tue~Sat), closed on Sundays
Instagram: @needle_girl

DOUBLE DOOR
Address: Pungnammun 4gil 15-25, Wansangu, Jeonju
Contact: 070-8865-1525
Opening hours: 11:00~22:00 (closed on Mondays)
Instagram: @cafe_doubledoors

Last WEEK
Address: Pungnammun 4gil 25-22, Wansangu, Jeonju
Opening hours: 11:00~21:00 (closed on Mondays)
Instagram: @Lastweek_jeonju

There are more to this Gomulja Golmok. If you feel like indulging in some retro, relaxed, and warm atmosphere, I recommend visiting this alleyway. There are many instagrammable spots here too.